Back in high school, I remember a classmate who struggled to differentiate between Haidilao and Din Tai Fung. To that classmate, both were simply “Asian food”: a vague category of foreign cuisine that ignored the nuances between fiery, spiced-laden hotpot and the meticulous craftsmanship of soup dumplings. That moment came rushing back to me as I stepped into Din Tai Fung’s newest location in Santa Monica. Founded in Taipei in 1958 as a cooking oil business, Din Tai Fung transitioned into a dumpling house in the 1970s, becoming one of Taiwan’s most internationally reorganized restaurant brands. What started as a small family-run shop quickly expanded, gaining a Michelin star in Hong Kong and solidifying itself as a global force in Asian cuisine. Its expansion to the US in the early 2000s marked a pivotal moment for Din Tai Fung’s journey in the West, introducing soup dumplings, or xiaolongbao, to a broader audience beyond just diasporic communities.
After a year-long renovation, Din Tai Fung’s Santa Monica location stands as a modern culinary destination, becoming the embodiment of tradition and innovation. With circular elements woven throughout the interior, the establishment’s design pays homage to their signature soup dumpling dish. Soft, halo-like lighting and curved ceiling accents mimic the bamboo baskets that carry the dish. The atmosphere is warm and refined, a careful orchestration of aesthetics that makes the dining experience feel both intimate and elevated.
One dish that stands out is the shrimp and kurobuta pork shao mai, a well-known menu item that speaks to the brand’s emphasis on flavors. I was immediately drawn to its plump and translucent wrappers as well as the shrimp on top. The filling, rich with natural umami of pork and seafood, had a melting sensation which immediately reminded me of risotto. It was definitely the highlight of my meal.
Beyond the handcrafted dumplings, Din Tai Fung offers an array of amazing dishes, one of them being the braised beef noodle soup with its tender cuts of slow-cooked beef submerged in a dark, aromatic broth infused with soy sauce, star anise, and a hint of spice. Its broth coats the springy noodles with a deep, savory warmth. For anyone seeking a lighter option, the cucumber salad provides a refreshing contrast with its crisp texture and garlicky soy dressing, while the spicy wontons pack a satisfying punch, drenching itself in a silky chili oil sauce that lingers just enough to leave you craving another bite.
Din Tai Fung’s arrival in Santa Monica isn’t just another restaurant opening, it reflects the evolving perceptions of Asian food in America. Decades ago, Asian cuisines in the US were often reduced to Americanized takes like General Tso’s chicken and fortune cookies. Today, a brand like Din Tai Fung, with its deep respect for techniques and tradition, helps reframe that conversation. Each dish tells a story about heritage, technique, and evolution, of migration, adaptation, and mastery. The xiaolongbao honors precision. The beef noodle soup carries Taiwan’s culinary history. The spicy wontons fuse regional influences into something new. Din Tai Fung preserves tradition while making it accessible. It proves that Asian food is not just one thing but a rich and dynamic experience.
